When travelling in New Zealand, it is impossible not to see the influence of the country's Maori population. From place names to bilingual signs and schools, the Maori language is evident, and many of the places we have visited have provided information on the uses of the diverse landscape by these early Polynesian settlers, and their legends and stories which for centuries were used transmit their unique tribal culture. ![]() We therefore decided it was important to spend some time learning about the history of the original islanders of Aotearoa (the Maori name for New Zealand), and what better way than to spend some time at a family run cultural evening in Rotorua, which aimed to give tourists an insight into traditional tribal culture, whilst also offering hangi or a feast, which is cooked underground. The hangi was delicious, the historical and cultural information and performances of traditional dances and songs was interesting and mesmerising in equal measure and the site is even home to wild glow worms which we were able to see in the forrest after the light had faded. We were even lucky enough to see the tribes scared cold water spring, Waiwhakarukuhanga-atua (water where gods plunge) which was and still is, regarded as a portal to the underworld. The spring was later renamed Te Puna a Tuhoe (the Spring of Tuhoe) named after the famous chief Tuhoe-potiki who once resided at the site. The crystal clear pool was around 3m deep and had water temperature of about 9 degrees centigrade which seemed to issue magically from the earth. Because the water was so blue and clear, it looked deceptively shallow. Our evening was a fantastic way to learn more and spend some time with a family who cared so much about sharing their heritage with travellers from across the globe. Whilst everyone knows about the haka (as performed by New Zealand's rugby team), we certainly didn't know that as tribes of warriors, Maori people would often eat the flesh of their vanquished foes. For warriors defeated in battle, tribes would consume the heart out of respect, and in doing so not only sort to absorb its strength, but also allow victors to carry a piece of other fearsome warriors with them for future battles. Intruders into Maori villages were faced with fences, trenches and escape tunnels, as communities attempted to protect their women and children. If unwanted guests did arrive, they may fall into one of these concealed pits, allowing the men to return and dispatch them in a grisly way - by removing the top of the skull, allowing the brain to be consumed directly, before the body was divided for food amongst the community and the dismembered head displayed on the outer fences as a warning to others. ![]() However, it was rather embarrassing, after being welcomed into a community and being politely asked to refrain from laughing during a performance of the most sacred welcoming ritual of the tribe, that members of our extended tour group were unable to help themselves, and instead acted, in my opinion, very disrespectfully. Interestingly, the culprits were not, as one would expect, stupid rowdy backpackers or young, immature tourists, but were in fact a coach load of greying Americans. Coupled with a few instances of mockery by some fellow Europeans, we were left wondering why people would pay not an insignificant amount to spend an evening at something they spent the whole time making fun of. Joe remarked that as people who literally trained their sons to be warriors from day 1, the dances, facial expressions and rituals we were being shown were designed to warn people of the expert fighting techniques and cannibalism practiced by the tribe. We challenge anyone not to be rightly terrified by the display of skill and strength if they were wandering in the dense bush alone.
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Hi! We're Alice and Joseph, currently on a year long RTW trip :) Archives
September 2018
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